Tuesday 13 November 2007

Weather, food and animal updates

It was always hot. But suddenly, someone seems to have turned the thermostat up another notch, and while they were there, also upped the humidity too.
The temperature when we got here was bearable. Pleasant even, especially with the sea breeze. Not quite as hot as the heady hot days of the British summer of 2006, but getting that way. Now, it seems as though we're getting to about 30 degrees before 7.30am. And the humidity just seems to increase in intensity throughout the day. There's no point wearing deoderant any more. You're just sweating so much anyway, it's just pointless. Standing in the shade in the breeze (when there is one) is bearable. But if you're indoors or in the sun, you're just sweating like the proverbial pig, finding it difficult to function or think straight and fantasising about November frosts and porridge for breakfast.
I've learned the malagasy word for hot and am using it frequently. Becky (the dive manager) told me that she was finding it so hard in the heat the other day, and that she was actually scared, as it's just going to get hotter! I share her fear. The rains have started inland already but we've yet to see a drop in Andavadoaka. It would certainly be a relief to see some. (Sunday update; it rained! A bit).
We've seen a couple of thunderstorms way, way, way away in the distance. I've mentioned before that there is infrequent running water here... And no water heater. But in this weather, the water now coming through the pipes is getting to be as warm as it would do if you used the hot tap at home, before it gets to be actually hot.

Meanwhile, this week saw the end of the expedition. Finally. The last night was quite emotional as it was the last night of one of the field scientists, after a 9 month stint on site. Everyone was really sad to see her go, myself included. I really liked her and would have liked to have got to spend more
time out here with her. She got a good send-off though. On our last party night, we also did the ritual 'tai be' (big shit) awards and sua be (big good) awards. The latter is supposed to reward people who go above and beyond their job, or do something extra good. Previous winners have included Justin for fuel monitoring and boat maintenance, Anna for her cheerfulness despite being ill a lot and not diving, and for looking after others.
So, I was extremely flattered that Justin and I were nominated by one of the volunteers. Then, one of the staff members nominated us too, and even though we had a bit of competition from Angelo (for helping Caroline out in the mangroves and for sustaining injuries during the process) and Vola (for helping out with the wedding of one of the staff members), everyone voted and we won! It's the best feedback that I could have asked at the end of my first expedition. I think I've done a reasonably good job given the circumstances (not much training, short induction period etc) but it's not always easy to always know for sure. so I just felt really really touched and flattered that other people onsite thought so too, and thought so enough to reward us so publically for it.
Both Justin and I agree that we've had such a fab bunch of volunteers to have started our first expedition with, and that our staff team have been really supportive, helpful and pretty amazing too.
After all that, and the subsequent alcohol drinking on the part of most of the volunteers... We then had to organise them getting packed up onto their 4X4 camion which finally arrived onsite at 11pm. It was pretty chaotic as, of course, no one wanted to stop partying. We said our final goodbyes to expedition 33 and crashed out at about 12.30. They finally left site at about 4am the following morning (Wednesday).
We just got word today (Friday) that they arrived on Thursday at around 1pm. The roads have started to deteriorate cos of the rains. So they were in the back of the truck (no seats, just foam) for about 33 hours. Eek. Have I mentioned before that we're pretty remote here?? You can forget that temporarily, until someone tries to leave, or come to site. I, for one, am glad to be staying on site. To have a little bit of peace for a few days, a little bit of time off, and do some of the admin tasks that need doing.
I'm looking forward to the next bunch of volunteers arriving - there'll be another 15 of them to add to the 4 from this expedition who are doing another six week block. It'll be pretty mad and it'll be interesting to see how their group dynamics evolve and what personalities they'll have. I'm also looking forward to the fact that this time, at least, I've done the first part of an expedition once before and have some idea of how things work now and what's supposed to happen!

Other news: Went up to the phone point earlier this week. This is a spot, up on a cliff overlooking the sea on the one side and the desert/spiny scrub land on the other where you can actually get mobile phone reception. It takes about an hour to walk there - which in the current climate, is pretty arduous. Thankfully, we'd brought plenty of water. Saw lots of cool birds in the scrub and the views were spectacular when we finally got to the 'point'... It's not a mast or anything, just a pile of rocks, around which you can get reception. But you can't get reception anywhere else. It was quite a thrill to be using a phone (I had to call the office)... The spot is also a bit of a haven for mosquitos and I got more bites during that brief call to London than I have all expedition. Then we had to turn round and walk back home.

Wildlife update
We had a couple of dragonfly mass suicide nights, when red dragonflies flew around at night and hurled themselves into lightbulbs to fry to death, or into the mouths of cats or geckos to be eaten. I'm not sure what had brought these dragonflies to such depths of despair. Or, indeed where they had come from, as I'd never seen them before that night.

Meanwhile, one of the skinny cats has given birth as there are two, fairly recent, kittens mewing and looking as cute as only kittens that haven't adapted to the harsh life of coco beach can look. Shame they're going to get into fights, get mange, fleas and ticks, and not enough food to eat.
I had a bit of a bug myself this week and spent three days lying in bed with no appetite. I also threw up over the balcony and later that night found that this had encouraged about 30 hermit crabs to come and party on that very spot by our hut. I know that things must be pretty desperate on the food front when I found myself bursting into tears when I read the words "grilled goat's cheese with a lemon and pepper dressing" in the book I was reading.... It's going to be a long nine months.

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